We are closed from Friday 20th December thru till the 6th of January. No shipments during this time. Happy Holidays!

Shop our Editor's Picks for the Season here!

KLEER KAST TROUBLE-SHOOTING

  • 3 min read

RESIN DOES NOT GEL

You may have forgotten to add the catalyst or (more typically) not added enough catalyst. If you haven’t added any catalyst, the resin won’t cure at all. So remove it to a clean container – thoroughly remove all traces of un-cured resin from the mould - add the catalyst to the resin and then re-pour into your mould.

If under catalysing has occurred your job can usually be saved by placing the poured article in a warm environment (such as: on a window sill in the sunlight, or adjacent to a heater – not too close) and simply allow extra time for it to cure. The resin will cure with minimal catalyst – it will just be very slow to do so

TACKY SURFACES ON TOP LAYER (OR INSIDE MOULD)

Top layer:- Kleer Kast (resin) is designed as a layering resin and therefore the layers remain tacky for 24 hours under normal curing conditions. If you place your article in a warm place and allow to cure; the tackiness of the top layer will pass as the molecules ‘lay down’.

Inside the mould:- Air has inhibited the curing or perhaps not enough catalyst was added. Seal off the air with a layer of cellophane while curing. A layer of ‘Norski Doming Resin’ completes a Kleer Kast moulding the best – it seals it and locks off the casting.

IF A CASTING STICKS IN THE MOULD

Insufficient care has been given to putting release agent into the mould. If possible, place the casting in boiling water for ten minutes then place in cold water; do this twice. The change of temperature will cause the resin to shrink slightly, and it will then hopefully come out of the mould. If the worst comes to the worst, you may have to destroy the mould.

CRACKS IN THE HARDENED RESIN

More than likely too much catalyst has been used, or use of embedded objects with a different expansion and contraction rate to the resin (for example: glass chunks will cause cracking if embedded). Use less catalyst, or cool the mould in water during the cure, but to be safe, wrap up everything in a plastic bag or other waterproof material to protect from moisture getting on your article – moisture will typically make your pour go cloudy.

A wavy top surface of your pour is indicative of a bit too much catalyst, if your item comes out of the mould without fracturing, then you can sand this and then polish the item with 1. Rubbing compound, 2. Brasso or even a little Jiff, finishing off with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

CLOUDY CASTINGS

Caused by water or moisture in the work, embedded objects must be absolutely dry. Possibly also, work and allow your item to cure in a drier atmosphere.

BUBBLES

Caused by air trapped in the resin. Mix resin carefully. Remove bubbles before
hardening when you see them, by piercing with a tooth prick or needle, or even with a gentle stir of the recently poured casting. Move embedded objects round to make sure no air is trapped, a trick to make sure they are completely covered is to soak objects beforehand in catalysed resin. This can also assist in gluing your embedded object down in your mould should it want to float in the resin

WARPING

This can happen in thin areas and is usually due to uneven application of resin. It can also be a symptom of a pour that has become exothermic during curing due too excessive catalyst.

 

Search